An evening at the Border

Very recently I had the chance to visit one of the friendlier and popular segments of the indo-pakistan border the - Waga border. With not knowing what to expect on visiting a national border we headed there in the hot summer afternoon enjoying the countryside and open highway. Surprisingly there was nothing much to distinguish the villages from the ones elsewhere in rural india. What was I expecting battered houses? empty villages? military all around? Yes, but this was not somewhere around the LoC or Rajasthan.
With the auto rickshaw driver feeding us with trivia out throughout the journey like the fact that Waga is actually the name of the village on the Pakistan side. I forget the name of the Indian counterpart.
Anyways we reached about an hour and a half before the scheduled time for the change of guard. Lots of time to have sumptuous Indian snacks, a look at DVD recordings of previous events and also click a few snaps in the wheat fields along the border and the bunkers. Quite an opportunity.
So after spending time in these sundry activities, it was almost time for the gates to be thrown open and so they were. So began an exodus of around a couple of thousand people running to grab some seats for the best possible view. Joining them we crossed an electrified fence, botanical inspection centre, immigration offices and all which all seemed quite incongruous amidst the wilderness. There was also a nice walk along the border for a stretch where we get a glimpse of the Pakistan side very closely. So after much walking around we finally reached the seating area a really huge amphitheater sorts for atleast five - six thousand people and literally it was full. Crowds just kept pouring in by the minute and suddenly the wilderness was no more and it looked like a suburban farmhouse area with people awaiting a cultural and entertainment filled session. One remarkable difference between the two sides was the color factor. The indians I did not notice such starkly ever are extremely colorful with their dressing while the other side was seemed to be in monotones from a distance.
So after great difficulty the security forces managed to get the crowd in the right places. Finally, they started the fanfare with bollywood music playing loud enough to drown out any trace of sound from across the border, whilst they tried the same. Each trying to get one up on the other. The likes of recent patriotic movies' songs, peppy numbers to boost people playing created a surreal atmosphere. It was like a jam session with a cheap DJ playing to rouse the crowds all intense numbers to which crowds could howl out a few prescribed slogans to keep from becoming fanatic or get too carried away. No anti-national and no religious slogans was the stipulation. To further the already frenzy environment created two indian flags came out of nowhere and suddenly volunteers were drawn out from the crowds to rush towards the border waving the flag and rush back again with the same gusto as if to crash into enemy gates or more heroically place the flag on an enemy post. Without a doubt there were queues building up for this exercise with everyone up for grabbing their two minutes of fame as little kids and youngsters danced to peppy tunes keeping people in spirited moods. All this probably to divert attention from the fact that from most part of the seating area there's actually nothing visible of the border gates. Had there not been a few flags flying around a picture of this evening would have easily been mistaken for an open air musical or talent show event!
Once in a while a person in civilian dress would walk around roping people into the act of clapping and shouting loudly. He was later joined by some admirable senior citizens tearing their lungs apart to bring the crowds to their feet and transfer some of their patriotic zeal. While I doubt anyone would remotely feel patriotic at these moments everyone just joined in to have a gala time and my perception and the imagination of the event was totally rubbished.

A grim, sombre and serious affair I thought with a probably a tear shed from all eyes and thought spared from all minds as a tribute to our jawans and all those who spend their lives protecting our borders was not to be. Which made me ask myself if perhaps this was the only way we could wrest emotion and sense of national pride and identity amongst today's population? Wouldn't a simple affair without the dramatics do any good? The indulgence of the forces itself is surprising attempting to amuse the public with all this. Was it they who designed the event or the public that 'demanded' it? It may be hard to say but the sad bit for me was that a truly formal and orthodox event had been metamorphosed into mockery. It may serve the immediate purpose of an emphatic and emotional response from all but it gives them nothing to take back home. Soldiers for them become entertainers and actors and military customs and discipline a new form of act. Shouldn't we use the few opportunities of getting people identify themselves with nationality in a meaningful and effective manner?
Some random thoughts which popped in my mind as I waited for the main attraction only to be able to steal a glance from between the leaves of a huge peepal tree.
Fortunately I was spared from any further musings on the drive back because the great Indian landscape just wouldn't let think of anything else. No doubts no complaints when you drive around countryside at dusk with the wind through the hair and torso leaning out of the auto. Ah! I could never have it better. I found my national pride, my patriotism, my ultimate happiness this land always gives me and it didn't need any melodrama. I love my India! no matter what.